This column was originally published by MySalonScoop.com. Copyright 2009 © My Salon Scoop, LLC

Ask A Stylist

Stylist explains chemical compounds of each process

By Sophia Emmanuel, Stylist

Q. What is the real difference between no-lye relaxers and lye relaxers?

A. Lye relaxers are made up of sodium hydroxide. No-lye relaxers are made up of guanidine, lithium, or potassium hydroxide. These are the chemical compounds formulated in relaxers to straighten hair.

One of the biggest ways to tell the difference between a no-lye and a lye relaxer is the physical preparation.

No-lye relaxers

A no-lye relaxer that is made up of guanidine hydroxide includes two steps:

Step 1 - It uses the crème called calcium hydroxide.

Step 2 - It uses the liquid activator called guanidine.

When mixed, these two formulas form guanidine hydroxide. These relaxers are sold in beauty supplies and local drug stores, and are the most popular no-lye relaxers on the market. No-lye relaxers also come in another formula known as a "no-mix relaxer," and are made up of lithium and potassium hydroxide instead.

The active ingredient in a no-lye relaxer tends to be less irritating on the scalp, and formulated for people with sensitive scalps. Although no-lye relaxers are less irritating than lye relaxers on the scalp, they can cause serious damage to your hair when used improperly by yourself or an untrained stylist.

No-lye relaxers tend to leave calcium deposits up on the hair shaft. Calcium deposits make it difficult for moisture to penetrate into your hair. When your hair doesn't receive proper moisture, it will appear dry, brittle and break off very easily.

You or your stylist must take extra steps when using a no-lye relaxer formula to prevent these mineral deposits from being left on the hair shaft. One way to do so is to use a chelator. Not only do they help remove calcium build up, but they also allow the hair to receive moisture. You can also try using Kera Care Demineralizing Treatment. It is formulated to remove calcium, and other mineral deposits from the hair, and should be used after a no-lye relaxer is completed.

Photo Credits: Styles by Sophia

Because no-lye relaxers are formulated different from lye relaxers, they take longer to process and don't break the hair down as straight as a lye relaxer. Many stylists and people who do their relaxers at home tend to leave the no-lye relaxer on the hair too long. This can cause your hair to be over processed, dry and lifeless. If you use a no-lye relaxer and find that your hair doesn't straighten as well as it should, you may want to change the strength. Use a no-lye relaxer formulated with different strengths, so you don't have to leave the relaxer on longer than it should stay on the hair.

No-lye relaxers work better for your hair when it's used right after mixing the two steps. Never use a no-lye relaxer after it has been mixed and left to sit. Always follow manufacture's instructions. And, throw away any unused mixed no-lye relaxer.

Taking these steps will allow you to have fewer problems with your hair when using a no-lye relaxer.

• Use a chelator or KeraCare Demineralizing wipes to remove calcium deposits.

• Keep your hair extremely moisturized.

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  Always protect previous relaxed hair by applying either oil or conditioner to the hair shaft. Doing so creates a barrier and protects the hair from calcium build up.

Lye relaxers

Lye relaxers are chemically formulated with sodium hydroxide, and tend to be more irritating on the scalp. Lye relaxers never have to be mixed. They come in two types, "no base" formula which tends to be less damaging and irritating on the scalp; and base formulas, which are stronger and tend to be even more irritating to the scalp.

Because lye relaxers break down the hair straighter, silky, softer hair will result after completion. Lye relaxers don't leave calcium build up on the hair, and allow your hair to receive moisture easier than a no-lye relaxer.

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